People are always saying thereís no good Mexican food in Rochester. Itís certainly true that we donít have the variety youíd find in Texas or California, but the general pronouncement might say more about the taste of the speaker. Besides the chains, we also have Mariaís, Salenaís, and Los Amigos, all of which are good at what they do. And if youíre willing to drive to Sodus, El RincÛn Mexicano has terrific vittles from Guadalajara.

Many who bemoan the lack of Mexican are really talking about something that isnít Mexican at all: the California ìMission-styleî burrito. The Mission CafÈ served a horribly bland version, and Selenaís Taqueria does something of the sort, but Rochester wants more. Enter Atlantaís Raging Burrito, which serves big olí tortillas, wrapped around beans, rice, and endless combinations of fresh ingredients. So why would a Georgia burrito joint franchise into a beach volleyball business in Rochester?

As it happens, Hot Shots co-owner Pierce Pape lives in Atlanta, where he used to run a bagel shop. He and the other Hot Shots owners --- ìvisionaryî J.B. Shares, Bill Page, and Peter Pape --- felt the need for a change. Pierce, who liked Raging Burritoís focus on freshness, health, and value, brought the two businesses together.

Chips come out warm with various dips. Freshly made salsa has finely-chopped onion and tomato, peppers, cilantro, and little else. An enormous pile of chips with salsa runs $3 (small for $1.75). The guacamole is chunky and simple, with red onion and mild spices ($3/$5.25 with chips). Sliding farther down the unhealthy slope, youíll find the veggie chili with cheese dip distressingly irresistible ($2.75/$4.50).

The basic burrito is a flour, wheat, spinach, or sundried tomato tortilla, filled with black or pinto beans (or a mix), brown rice, jack and cheddar, and salsa. Itís enormous --- the staff shirts say ìwe roll fattysî --- and a bargain ($4). The rice inside is what distinguishes the ìMission-style,î and while Iím not a fan (itís like having a corn sub), people everywhere love them. The ìragingî burrito adds lettuce, cucumber, onion, and sour cream ($5.25).

You can create your own Franken-burrito by adding feta cheese, corn, roasted garlic, pickled jalapenos, shredded carrots, jerk tofu, breaded eggplant, and so on. Even so, some choices were notably missing. You canít get a corn tortilla (Pape says they might offer one soon), white rice, or refried beans (the cooked black beans were great, but I found the pintos a bit sexless).

I like a chefís discretion, and was much happier with the chipotle bbq burrito than with the raging monster ($7.75). Chipotle peppers are dried, smoked chilis, and ìmaster raging chefî Ron Manliguisís sauce is deep and scrumptious. That over stewed black beans and grilled chicken, with caramelized onion and cilantro, was fabulous inside a flour tortilla ($7.50). Brown rice or cucumbers would have compromised the balance (mistakes I made with my forearm-sized raging monster).

Other specialties include the Bangkok burrito (Thai peanut sauce with grilled chicken or tofu, $7.75); Cajun killer (spiced, grilled shrimp, steak, tofu, fish, or chicken, $6.75); and Tokyo Teriyaki (sautÈed tofu, steak, or chicken, $6.75). Photographer Kurt Brownell was most pleased with his Jamaican jerk chicken burrito ($6.75).

Raging Burrito is in the cavernous Hot Shots building, but is surprisingly comfortable. Even on a nasty day, it was reasonably cool (the heat goes up), and the oil-drum-based tables are funky and fun. There is also a side room with simpler tables and chairs, which works better for a family. There arenít any high chairs or sippy cups, but the attitude towards my children was outstanding, and Pape will take care of those omissions. The wait staff was clear, attentive, and friendly, obviously trained by somebody with a vision.

Raging Burrito is somewhat hidden, but that shouldnít be a problem. It has a built-in clientele and plentiful parking, and Rochester has been crying out for this type of food. Itís a restaurant that takes lessons from chains, but maintains a single-location feel. Pape might pull strings in absentia, but he stressed how good a job local manager Scott Miller is doing. The formula should make the place a raging success for years to come.

Raging Burrito, 1046B University Avenue, 461-1799. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; 4 to 9 p.m. Saturday through Sun day.

Food tip

One of Rochester's busiest restaurants has moved, but not very far. The King & I is now across Alliance Drive at 1455 East Henrietta. Iíll miss the garden next to the old location, but the sparkling new restaurant has 100 more seats. My favorite dish is #47, kang phet chicken, with maybe a little beef satay to start.

--- Michael Warren Thomas

Michael Warren Thomas can be heard on WYSL 1040. Tune in on Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and travel from 9 to noon, and on Sundays for antiques and wine from 10 to noon. Listen live on the web at www.SavorLife.com.