Adam's contributions were not merely reviews of restaurants in the area. He was able to capture the background and history of not only the food presented by the restaurant but also the passion and excitement that drove various owners and chefs into the restaurant business in the first place. His intellectual curiosity, coupled with his fresh, clear, non-idiomatic writing, developed some remarkable essays I will never forget - such as the unique background of owner-chef Peter Gekas of the Olive Tree Greek restaurant, the 3000-word description of a year- long search for Rochester's best hamburger, and a stunning appreciation of "The Corn Man," Robert Gentle of Penfield, in his quest to produce truly unusual sweet corn.
I am sure your readers are pleased to see that the food column is being continued by James Leach, and I hope that the rich legacy of his predecessor will continue in his writings.
WILLIAM D. SMITH, ROCHESTER