From a small, unassuming strip-mall location in Webster, a curious smell wafts that you just don't expect - but it is, in fact, what you suspect. It's the pleasingly smoky smell of a wood-burning oven, ready to serve up one of La Bella Vita's specialties, wood-fired pizzas.

The Chow Hound was pleasantly surprised by the welcoming warm yellow walls, cool tiles, and bronze accents. Owner Rosario Arena used to own a pizzeria more than 20 years ago, but traded in the restaurant life for masonry. With La Bella Vita, he managed to combine both of those careers, as he hand-built the restaurant's beautiful wood-burning oven, as well as its roomy bar, which is nicely segmented from the dining area.

On a recent lunch visit, the experience was relaxing; at no time did we feel hurried, yet the service was timely. The mood for paninis and pizza prevailed, and we were not disappointed. The pollo panini was a healthy portion, including a side salad with large, leafy greens, and a tangy vinaigrette. The bread was divine, and the only slight issue was the chicken breast that seemed a bit small for the size of the bread, leading to many bites of bread and pesto alone. The pizza, however, was close to perfection, with grilled shrimp, firm tomatoes, a healthy spread of pesto and asiago cheese, all atop a thin, crisp, wood-fired crust.

La Bella Vita's menu goes beyond pizzas and paninis, however. The full menu includes Italian favorites like greens and beans, linguini with clam sauce, chicken parmesan, and for those who are a bit more adventurous, tripe.

Manager Korynn Ferreri says that the restaurant fits an east side Italian niche. This is a family-oriented atmosphere, including a kids menu, so everyone can enjoy the experience. The restaurant plans to obtain a liquor license in the near future, with Ferreri estimating the launch of a martini and wine bar in about a month.

La Bella Vita is located at 1759 Empire Boulevard in Webster. 671-7220. Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday 3-11 p.m.

Ask and ye shall receive...

Thanks to the many online comments readers - and owners - made at rochestercitynewspaper.com regarding the restaurants listed as "in limbo" in our last column. We are happy to report some exciting updates for two of the restaurants.

Organic Alley has merged with the Keuka Coffee Company in an effort to continue to supply organic options to area foodies. While the merger is still in the tinkering phase, Organic Alley products started appearing on the Keuka menu last week. When asked what products consumers can expect to see, Organic Alley's Amy Considine mentions that they are taking "eco-steps" when deciding what to feature next. "It takes small steps to become green in most people's daily lives, so we are taking the similar small steps to a new, greener menu."

Keuka was a natural choice, as Organic Alley's Doug Miller has frequented the Pittsford coffee house for years. A friendship formed between Miller and Keuka's owner, Todd Marshall, and the current combining of forces provides a way for the Alley to persevere after the flooding of its own location.

The first phase of the partnership will focus on drinks, with organic coffees and teas becoming more prevalent. The use of local products will also increase, decreasing food miles, such as using Pittsford Dairy for supplies. Over the next month or so, expect to see an introduction of organic smoothies, baked goods, and healthy grab-and-go snacks perfect for a canal-side walk.

Visit Organic Alley and Keuka Coffee Company at 616A Pittsford-Victor Road, Pittsford. Hours are Monday-Friday 6:45 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday 6:45 a.m.-5 p.m., and Sunday 6:45 a.m.-4 p.m. 249-9310.

Meanwhile, Portobello Ristorante has reopened in the same location, under a different moniker, with all the same Italian tastes. A recent remodel provided the venue with an updated look, including fresh paint and upgraded restrooms. When asked about the background for the new name, Portofino Bistro, owner John Sebaste says that "it was just time for a change."

Happily, the menu still caters to those who adhere to a gluten-free diet, and now features gluten-free pasta. For vegetarians, Portofino has roughly 10 entrees to choose from.

Portofino Bistro is located at 2171 West Henrietta. Hours are Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. for lunch, and Tuesday-Friday 5-9:30 p.m., Saturday 5-10 p.m., Sunday 5-9 p.m. for dinner. 427-0110.