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SUMMER GUIDE: State Parks

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Here in Rochester, it's a quick drive down Interstate 390 to two spectacular state parks with similar natural features - gorges and waterfalls - but very different vibes. At Letchworth State Park, which spans more than 14,000 acres, you'll find jaw-dropping scenery along a 17-mile stretch of the Genesee River. Yep, when the glacier formed Mendon Ponds Park, it was just getting warmed up. When you're done gawking, explore Genesee Valley history at the William Pryor Letchworth Museum and the Council Grounds.

At 577 acres, Stony Brook State Park is a fraction of the size of its neighbor to the north, but there's a lot to love. "Stony Brook is really rugged - we call it the park of 1,000 stairs," jokes park manager Tom Barrile.

Letchworth State Park

Here's the scoop on Letchworth: with three post-glacial canyons formed 10,000 to 15,000 years ago, its "Grand Canyon of the East" nickname is not a mere marketing ploy. Get the maximum effect at the Archery Field overlook as you gaze across Great Bend Gorge at majestic cliffs soaring 600 feet above the Genesee River. For an off-the-beaten-path option, park manager Roland Beck recommends the Wolf Creek area. "It's a neat little spot with a small waterfall and a bridge, tucked away between the Perry and Castile entrances."

Letchworth features 66 miles of hiking trails varying from easy to moderately challenging. For ambitious hikers, Trail 1 is a 10-mile trail along Great Bend Gorge; a 20-mile round trip. For families, Beck recommends the portion of Trail 1 from Middle Falls to Upper Falls, about a quarter mile. "Trail 6A is a nice half-mile option, with a footbridge along Lower Falls. There are lots of stairs on this trail, but the scenery is beautiful," he says.

William Pryor Letchworth, an industrialist and philanthropist from Buffalo, was so taken by the natural beauty of the area that he purchased the park's original 1,000 acres for his country estate. "Letchworth wanted to share the peace and serenity he had with others," Beck says. He deeded the land to New York State in 1907 to thwart the development of a power plant that would have dried up two of the park's major waterfalls.

As you'll see at the William Pryor Letchworth Museum, preserving local history was important to Letchworth. Located across from Letchworth's former residence, the Glen Iris Inn, this small, well-organized museum contains permanent exhibits on the history of the Genesee Valley, including its Native American heritage and Letchworth's development of the park. A mastodon skull adds kid-friendly gee-whiz appeal. A temporary exhibit examines life at Camp Williams, a Civil War camp that was located nearby. The museum was recently renovated for the park's 2006-2007 centennial celebration.

After your museum visit, scamper up the steep wooden stairway behind the museum to the Council Grounds. If your scampering days are behind you, drive up instead.

"What Mr. Letchworth did with the Council Grounds was a precursor to places like Genesee Country Village and Museum," says Bryan Scriven, Letchworth's Historic Site Manager. In 1871, Letchworth purchased the badly deteriorated Seneca Council House in Caneada, New York. It was dismantled and reassembled on his estate. "In October 1872, the last council fire on the Genesee was held in the Council House to reconcile the Mohawks and Senecas, estranged since the War of 1812," says Scriven. The grave of Mary Jemison, the celebrated White Woman of the Genesee who once owned the park's land, was also moved to the Council Grounds, as was a circa 1800 cabin built for her daughter, Nancy.

In terms of activities, you can get a glimpse of the park from Mary Jemison's perspective: on horseback. Wolcott Farms offers rides on selected park trails (beginners are welcome); for information visit www.wolcottfarms.com or call 786-3504 for information.

If the fearless Jemison was alive today, she'd probably make a beeline for the white water rafting trips provided by Adventure Calls Rafting. The Genesee is fairly mild, which makes it perfect for first-time rafters. Go to www.adventure-calls.com or call 343-4710 for details.

For a view Letchworth and Jemison could only dream of, try a hot air balloon ride, offered by Balloons Over Letchworth at sunrise and sunset. Info at www.BalloonsOverLetchworth.com or 493-3340.

Leave time to indulge in classic summertime pursuits. Swim at Letchworth's Olympic-sized pool at Highbanks Recreation Area, a smaller pool at the Lower Falls, or fish at stocked ponds at the Lee's Landing and St. Helena areas. Be sure to bring your own gear and bait.

The historic Glen Iris Inn offers fine dining and bed and breakfast accommodations within the park. Additional dining options range from counter service at the Lower Falls Restaurant to snack bars, numerous picnic areas and shelters. Other accommodations include lodge and cottage rentals, and 270 campsites, all supplied with electricity.

Be advised: named one of the nation's Top 100 campgrounds in 2004 and 2006, Letchworth books up fast.

To experience Letchworth, take Interstate 390 south to Exit 7 (Mt. Morris), approximately 45 minutes from Rochester. Follow the signs on Route 408 three miles to the park's Mt. Morris entrance. Pull into the first overlook area for a lookey-loo at the impressive Mt. Morris Dam. Open daily dawn to dusk. Admission is charged between the hours of 8 a.m. and 6 p.m., $6 per vehicle. Visit www.nysparks.com, www.letchworthparkhistory.com or call 493-3600.

Stony Brook State Park

Stony Brook State Park offers the natural beauty of Letchworth on a less dramatic scale, in a more intimate setting. Think of it as the park less traveled.

"The people who come here tell me they enjoy visiting a smaller park with fewer visitors and less traffic," says Tom Barrile, park manager. Like Letchworth, Stony Brook boasts a post-glacial gorge formed 10,000 to 15,000 years ago, as well as mesmerizing waterfalls.

Stony Brook's stream-fed pool is a major attraction. "You're swimming in a natural setting, surrounded by a gorge," explains Barrile. The pool's temperature averages in the low 70s. "It's pretty brisk, but really refreshing on hot days," Barrile says. The pool has a 2'-deep kiddy area, and an adult area ranging from 2' to 8' deep. "There's plenty of space for everyone," says Barrile.

Another draw is the chance to hike along Stony Brook itself at the base of the gorge. Due to safety concerns, visitors aren't allowed to hike along the bottom of Letchworth's gorges. Of the park's three trails, Barrile recommends the three-quarter-mile Gorge Trail for families. You'll descend about 200 stairs to the bottom of the gorge, and pass three major waterfalls. "A lot of people take the Gorge Trail up and either the West Rim or East Rim Trail back. All three trails loop together," Barrile says. "Hiking up the rim trails is a good workout for adults who are in shape. It'll make your calves scream."

Adults and kids alike flock to the park's playground. "We call it the million dollar playground. It's got everything, including a climbing wall," says Barrile.

Stony Brook was developed by a private landowner after the Civil War, and became a popular tourist destination after a railroad station was constructed in the park in 1883. The park fell into a period of decline in the 1920s, and New York State took over in 1928. Like Letchworth, some of the park's bridges and overlooks were constructed by Depression-era federal work programs such as the Civilian Conservation Corps.

Stony Brook has a snack bar and more than 300 grills and picnic tables. There are 125 campsites which - in keeping with the park's rugged theme - do not have electricity.

To explore Stony Brook, take Interstate 390 south about an hour to Exit 4 (Dansville). Head south on Route 36 for two miles, following the signs. Open daily, dawn to dusk. After June 23, admission of $7 per vehicle is charged between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. For info, visit www.nysparks.com or call 335-8111.

SIDEBAR:

Ultimate Summer Park Events

Stony Brook offers Friday evening programs led by a nature interpreter, such as lightning bug walks and presentations on the park's history. Guided hikes on the Gorge Trail are offered twice daily on Saturdays. Call 335-8111 for details.

Letchworth continues its centennial celebration with Blues, Bikes and Barbeque on July 7, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. at the Highbanks Recreation Area. Displays by motorcycle shops, a best bike contest, and a fireworks display over Mt. Morris Dam at 9:15 p.m. Bikers and wannabes welcome.

Balloons Over Letchworth hosts an anniversary bash at the Middle Falls Area on August 16, 3-8 p.m. Enjoy tethered balloon rides, free swing dance lessons 4-6 p.m., and a 17-piece big band 6-8 p.m.

Overwhelmed by modern technology? Get away from it all at the Stone Tool Technology Show, August 25-26, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., at the Highbanks Recreation Area. Check out tool-making demos, Native American crafts, and a 19th century Mountain Men encampment.

Letchworth's Summer Farewell Festival takes place September 2, 1-9 p.m. at the Highbanks Recreation Area. It features music, family activities, comedy and variety acts, food and fireworks.

Comments for "SUMMER GUIDE: State Parks" (1)

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Laurie said on Jun. 05, 2009 at 9:39am

The Stone Tool Technology Show at Letchworth is an awesome event! It's really cool to watch people making arrowheads and the setting couldn't be more beautiful!

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