Considering that various people were involved in its multifaceted conception, it's nearly amazing how cohesive Bodhi's feels. It's a coffee house, a club, a sandwich joint, and a bistro. And yes, somehow, it all works.

Though initially a partnership, Andrew Lederman is now in control, bringing years of varied experience to bear. Originally from Brighton, Lederman worked in fast food as a teenager, got the bug, and became a lifer. He studied culinary arts at Johnson & Wales in Providence, then began a trek that has taken him to Colorado, onto Cruises ships, and into many local kitchens, including the Newport House, Tonic, and Richardson's.

Throughout the day Bodhi's offers café fare: baked goods, sandwiches, salads, and soups. A deli sandwich with chips and pickle is $5.95 (50 cents to add a side). It's a fine version of the expected: choice of good bread and protein (roast beef, turkey, tuna salad, marinated tofu), topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, or cheese. All can be served "panini style," meaning grilled. My side, potato salad, was standard variety (mayo base with celery and a tint of sharpness), fresh and excellent.

Next come specialty sandwiches ($7.50). Smoking Buddha is smoked turkey, walnut-basil pesto, sun-dried tomato, and mozzarella on whole grain bread, nicely grilled. The other specialty sandwiches include the Big Bertha, with roast beef, or the Tsunami Pastrami, and two veggie offerings (Booming Bodhi features portobello mushroom; Bodhidharma has hummus).

There are also three signature salads ($6.95). Mango in the Grass sounded cool, with avocado, mango, craisins, sunflower seeds, and goat cheese over greens. It was almost great, though a touch of sweet in the ginger-cilantro vinaigrette would light up the fruit. Carrot-ginger soup tastes like both without either dominating (cup $2.50, bowl $3.50). I could eat that every day.

Lunch was good, but not necessarily compelling. I headed to dinner to try the short, bistro-style menu without high expectations (that's when all the best experiences happen). Spring rolls were pricey ($8), but well made, with shrimp, Napa cabbage, carrots, and green onion, literally bursting with freshness. The dip of soy sauce, sesame oil, chili flakes, and fish sauce lit up my taste buds.

And for the first time since the Victor Grilling Company closed, my wife and I were moved by meatloaf. Lederman mixes beef, veal, pork, and herbs, then cooks it perfectly, with a thin, caramelized crust and meltaway interior. It comes atop luscious, roasted-garlic smashed potatoes. A medium-sized portion (plenty for my wife) was an astonishing $10.95. Jumbalaya was also outstanding, with shrimp, Andouille sausage, and shredded chicken in tomato and fragrant spices. It was hot enough to notice but still allowed the flavors to shine. A manageable portion was $11.95.

Smart cost control and portion sizes enable Lederman to offer all entrées for $12 or under. The quality is competitive with (or better than) most of our top-of-the-price-curve joints. Dinner at Bodhi's qualifies as one of the area's best values.

The business is named for Bodhidharma, the India philosopher credited with founding Zen Buddhism. Coffee and Zen go together. Really. But there are also Divinity Organic teas. The interesting Village Gate space does the trendy, part-finished-part-warehouse look in a warm, inviting way. It's large, but doesn't swallow you whole. The service was friendly, if short on polish at dinner. You can live with that. It's not set up for families, but the staff was kind to my kids.

Lederman is having live music on weekends, and an open mic night as well. On Saturdays, you might find jazz, folk, even rock. When the weather comes around, Lederman will serve in the Village Gate courtyard and plans to have outdoor events as well. He and I reminisced about the days when Schnozz's would be packed and Village Gate would feel totally happening. He has high hopes of reanimating the place, and we can all hope for success.

So, with all the coffee joints springing up, what differentiates Bodhi's? The coffee (Equal Exchange) if very good, the café fare just fine. But the space itself and the outstanding dinners at low prices give it a leg up.

Bodhi's Café & Lounge, 274 North Goodman Street (Village Gate), 473-2030. Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.; Wednesday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.; Thursday, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m.-midnight; Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight.

Food tip

The Grind has new owners, who are bringing top-notch pastries to Victor (54 Main Street). Vernon Puglisi and Michael Walsh worked together as pastry chefs at the Rochester Riverside Convention Center, and were looking for a place of their own. The Grind will continue to offer locally roasted coffee from Canaltown Coffee Roasters, and now has a much broader selection of pastries and desserts. 924-9160.

--- Michael Warren Thomas of www.SavorLife.com.