"You want me to drive an hour to eat?" You can eat very well in Rochester, but the Brown Hound Bistro isn't quite like anything else around here. Plus, it's a pretty drive.

Brighton native Trish Aser worked her way up in chains, then "went west to be a ski bum." In Jackson, Wyoming, she worked in some fabulous restaurants, particularly the Blue Lion (part of the inspiration for the Brown Hound). Back in Rochester, a restaurant owner fired her, saying, "When you have your own place, you can do it your way." She was working at Bristol Mountain when she got the idea to open a coffee and breakfast kiosk (she'd counted cars on the road to test the idea). Then the owners of the Hobby House restaurant retired. Aser checked out the 100-year-old house, found a chef-partner, and opened the Brown Hound in 2005. Her partner moved on, predicting a quick demise, but Aser wasn't having it.

She rallied, with employees Emmy Wilk and Lizzy Clearman taking on the cooking. A few months later, she found her chef, Gretta Pagorek. With Aser's guiding vision, the four women collaborate on seasonal menus. "Fresh, local, unique, and seasonal," Aser says. "That's our guiding principle."

Reverend Corey Keyes and I ordered "the lot of it" at lunch. Grilled seafood bisque was sweet and rich, slightly smoky with sink-your-teeth texture due to real ingredients rather than thickener ($4/5). The highlight of the tapas plate ($8) was the artichoke and olive tapenade, amazingly balanced and neither bitter nor too salty. Simple, warmed goat cheese on perfect crostini (toast) was a revelation. Basil pesto and fresh-cut tomatoes were much better than the season would suggest.

Slowly, Corey and I noticed our setting: white linen and nice - but not ostentatious - tableware, tasteful local art, and rustic touches like curtain rods made from branches. We sat in a bay near the entrance with lovely light. Most seats are close together, and I imagine dinner would be a social experience.

Next came soy ginger salmon salad ($9). A marinated and grilled fillet topped field greens with cashews and a citrus vinaigrette. This isn't a wildly creative dish, but it's creative enough. The Brown Hound steers clear of the culinary train wreck, with every dish well thought out and executed. As we finished each course, the volume of our praise became "a joyful noise to the Lord."

Things only got better with the Sweet Grass lambburrito, local, grass-fed, ground lamb with herbs in a tortilla ($9). "The lamb comes from this great farmer named MacKenzie at Sweet Grass Meats," Aser says. The lamb was simply awesome, rich but not gamy, with the aromatic depth unique to good lamb. It was set off nicely by lettuce, tomato, and onion, and the sour and creamy touches of yogurt and feta. Damn (sorry, Rev). Bread pudding and a fab lemon tart did nothing to diminish our esteem.

I did not try weekend brunch or dinner (both have their own menus). Brunch features items like "Rodney's toast," named for the delivery guy from Crystal City bakery in Corning, "Just a great, great guy," Aser says (three thick-cut slices, $4). The "Bills" in Wild Bills Hangover is Aser's boyfriend, Peter Bills. It's a three-egg omelet with bacon, onion, banana peppers, and cheddar (with toast and potatoes, $7). The menu also includes that great lambburitto ($8), seared yellowfin tuna ($9), and more.

Dinner prices are higher ($19 to $33), but I'd bet the Hound delivers on quality. The current menu includes eggplant parm ($19), Swiss and asparagus ravioli ($22), and chicken almond amaretto (with Arbor Hill's amaretto sherry cream sauce, $21). Try a lighter, cheaper meal comprising soups ($3 to $5) and starters such as tuna tartare ($8) or the tapas plate ($8).

Michael Warren Thomas points out that the Brown Hound might have the largest list of Finger Lakes region wines in the area. It has occasional wine dinners, and participates in area events such as the Finger Lakes Wine Festival in Watkins Glen and classes at the Finger Lakes Wine and Culinary Center.

Do I want you to drive an hour to eat? Hell, yeah. (Sorry, Rev.)

Brown Hound Bistro, 6459 State Road 64, Naples, (585) 374-9771, www.brownhoundbistro.com. Hours: Wednesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.

Food tip

West Main Street may be under construction, but that didn't stop Merlean Jackson from opening MJ Daily Bread at 540 West Main. She's about to add BBQ ribs and pulled pork, and offer seating on a back patio. Everything is homemade, from mashed potatoes to desserts. Monday through Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; closed Sundays. 436-4630.

- Michael Warren Thomas of www.SavorLife.com.