A study reports that "melting chocolate in one's mouth produces an increase in brain activity and heart rate that is more intense than that associated with passionate kissing, and also lasts four times as long after the activity ends."

Full disclosure: the above is from Wikipedia. The only way to know if it's true is to find out for yourself. Choose from among these local chocolate producers and a bevy of tastings, and grab your favorite lab partner.

Andrew Sykut owns Andy's Candies, the business his grandfather founded in 1917, initially selling cigars and ice cream before turning his hand to sweets. Andy's chocolate is homemade from a traditional secret recipe. The shop's four suburban outlets and one city location - which opened on Monday for the Valentine's through Easter season - sell chocolates crammed with creams, nuts, caramels, and chews, as well as aerated molasses sponge candy.

Andy's Valentine's Day treats include chocolate-covered strawberries and chocolate hearts. Heart-shaped boxes for the traditionalists start at $7.95 for 15 pieces. If you really want to say it with chocolate, $145 will buy you a 250-piece assortment. Stuffed bears for sale can accompany your gift.

Andy's Candies, 1100 Hudson Avenue (additional locations in Greece, Henrietta, Penfield, Webster), 266-5180. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., through Easter (Greece store open year-round).

Across town, Stever's Candies is all in the family, too. Kevin Stever and his wife, Leslie, run the store Kevin's parents opened (originally at South Goodman and Benton) in 1946. The Stevers hand-craft chocolates with the usual creamy, chewy, and nutty centers. The boxed assortments are taste- and texture-tailored: all milk, all dark, all soft centers, all crisp and chewy, and a milk and dark mix.

Specialty offerings run the gamut from homemade vanilla marshmallows to hand-funneled fondant cream wafers and party mints. Or consider sponge candy, which, just as at Andy's, is available only from October through April due to its intolerance of heat.

For your sweetie, Stever's suggests fancy heart-shaped boxes in assorted designs for $17-$30. And on this, the ultimate impulse-purchase holiday, last-minute shopping pays off: chocolate-dipped clusters of fresh raspberries go on sale only three days prior to Valentine's.

Stever's Candies, 623 Park Avenue, 473-2098. Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Extended hours: Sunday 2/3 & 2/10, 1-6; Tuesday & Wednesday 2/12 & 2/13, open until 8:30 p.m.

Longtime residents know that the South Wedge Diner's building once housed 82-year-old Peter Livadas's restaurant and candy store. Livadas, who made ice cream in the Eastman Kodak cafeteria before leaving to open his own place, closed the restaurant in the late 80's to focus on the candy business that's been down the street on South Clinton ever since.

Peter's Sweet Shop hand molds chocolate mixed from a secret recipe. Milk, dark, vanilla (white), and orange-flavored chocolates enrobe a rainbow of cream fillings and jellies, and one of the best parts of being a grown-up: liquor creams. The staff will gift-wrap 1/2- and 1-pound boxes free of charge and will create gift baskets to order.

Peter's Sweet Shop, 880 S. Clinton Ave., 442-6770. Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

Relative newcomer Hedonist Artisan Chocolates' Jennifer Posey and Zahra Langford create handmade chocolate truffles with French chocolate and innovative natural ingredients.

The chocolates, in both spiced and more traditional flavors like milk chocolate and hazelnut, are available for purchase online. They can also be purchased at The Cheese Shop at Wine Sense on Park Avenue. At Equal=Grounds Coffee House on South Avenue, chocophiles can create their own custom assortment at the chocolate counter. Prices range from $12 to $58 per box.

The "Valentine Spice" collection combines five unlikely flavors: coconut curry, lemon pepper, orange chipotle, peanut butter cayenne, and raspberry wasabi. Hedonist boxes the chocolates in five-, 10-, and 20-piece sets and also offers a beribboned Valentine Spice "gift tower."

The truffles will be available at several tasting events this week and next. Equal=Grounds (750 South Avenue) will host free events February 1, 7-9 p.m., and February 12, 13, and 14, 4-7 p.m. Tasters who purchase a box of truffles on the three latter dates will receive a free gift. On February 10, Wine Sense (749 Park Avenue, 271-0590) will hold a wine and chocolate pairing class to show participants how to best combine an array of red wines with chocolate, from truffles to fondue. Port and Cabernet Sauvignon will be among the eight spirited matches. Hedonist's Posey will be on hand to explain her wares. Reserve a spot in advance for $25.

Max of Eastman Place will host the third annual Slow Food Chocolate Dinner & Tasting Tuesday, February 5, at 6 p.m. Chef Tony Gullace will prepare a three-course surprise menu. Following the dinner, Hedonist's Posey and Langford will talk about their chocolate creations and offer a selection of truffles for tasting. Reservations are available for the dinner, the tasting, or both.

Slow Food is a movement begun in 1986 that advocates for good, clean, and fair food. It is based on principles of good taste, environmental sustainability, and social justice.

Dinner costs $48 inclusive for three courses (does not include drinks or dessert). Vegetarian options available; request at time of reservation. The chocolate tasting costs $10 for Slow Food members, $15 for non-members.

For reservations call 328-8300 or e-mail Michael@SavorLife.com.