New Greek eateryAstoria has made its debut on Monroe Avenue. Opa!

Occupying the space that most recently housed India Café, this newest addition to the food-flecked neighborhood opened May 22. Astoria's plan is to offer gyros and other Greek-American specialties in a casual, friendly atmosphere. The menu is larger than you'd expect for such a small space; while the emphasis is on Greek cuisine, the less adventurous can order locally inspired dishes such as the Original Rochester Burger, a take on the plate in burger format, or a Buffalo chicken sandwich.

The name Astoria pays homage to the Greek settlement in Queens, New York. For decades this downstate area has been home to a large population of ethnic Greeks, and the culture is reflected in the high number of Greek specialty bakeries and cafes. Paul and Claudia Votsis, owners of the restaurant Astoria along with Bill and Natasa Votsis, wanted to bring a little of that neighborhood to upstate. Paul says that in this area, Greek restaurants tend to be more upscale, and the Votsises wanted to offer a more approachable way to enjoy Greek cuisine.

While Votsis was born and raised in Rochester, he learned Greek cuisine from his father, who has been in the restaurant business for more than 35 years. The family has been honing its culinary skills at the Greece Ridge Family Restaurant, and with this new venture, it focuses more on the rich heritage of Greek foods.

Dips are a reliable way to start a meal at Astoria, specifically the three-dip combo. The tzatziki was tangy and bright, featuring fresh cucumber and dill; the hummus was a perfect combination of garbanzo beans, ground sesame, olive oil, and garlic; and the "fire feta" was a pleasant surprise. Imported feta cheese and olive oil were blended with hot peppers, which gave it just enough heat. These dips were served with warm, soft pita triangles and drizzled heavily with even more olive oil. (A side note: all three dips are just as enjoyable - if not better - the next day.)

The beef souvlaki pita impressed in both size and in taste. The tender marinated beef, wrapped in a warm pita with cold, crisp lettuce, fresh tomatoes, and just the right amount of tzatziki won me over. It was the most delicious pita I've ever had, and provided a heavenly, filling lunch. We also tried the original gyro with the same delicious results. Other options begging for a return trip include pastitsio (layers of seasoned ground beef and pasta topped with a béchamel sauce), moussaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes, and ground beef topped with a béchamel sauce), and the spanakopita (spinach and feta cheese pie with phyllo dough). If you can't choose just one, Astoria offers a trio platter so you don't even have to make up your mind.

For dessert, I noticed the usual suspects, but to my delight, found a dish I've not seen on any Rochester menu. Galaktouboureko is very similar to baklava, in that it includes phyllo dough. But instead of layers of nuts, there is a thick layer of Greek custard to sink your teeth into. Paul surprised me when he said that baklava and galaktouboureko are on equal footing in Greece when it comes to the favorite dessert. In a direct taste test between both, I can see why Greeks are split on which reigns supreme. How to choose between the nutty cinnamon flavor of baklava, or the rich, creamy custard is beyond me. To further indulge, you can also try the rice pudding or the yogurt with honey and walnuts.

Astoria is located at 651 Monroe Avenue, and can be reached at 271-4033. The restaurant is currently open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m., but Paul says those hours may change in the future.

Closing time

Ariana Kabob House (1009 S Clinton Ave) has seemingly once again closed its doors. Last year Ariana's closed temporarily due to a fire, eventually reopening late in the year. This Afghani restaurant was known for its lunch and dinner buffet, and provided the city with one of its few options for eating traditional Middle Eastern food. The restaurant number is currently disconnected, and the owners could not be reached for comment.

Another recent closure to report is Kobay (123 Park Ave), known primarily for its sushi, and for being the sister restaurant to the adjacent Thai hotspot Esan. The unique red bean ice cream will be missed, along with a la carte menu of sushi and rolls. Kobay closed May 3, and the business is currently for sale; Esan, thankfully remains open.

Two local pizza chains are on the move downtown. Pontillo's on Park Avenue is gearing up to relocate to 318 Alexander Street, while Mark's Pizzeria has relocated a whopping 100 yards. Mark's continues to reside on Monroe Avenue, however finding it is a little trickier - the restaurant is now set back from the street, at 619 Monroe, adjoining Exxon. The number remains the same, 256-1040.