In Edward Hopper's painting "Nighthawks," the late-night diner embodies the tensions of a country on the verge of the Nuclear Age; the lonely restaurant an eerie, doorless prison full of lost souls and cold coffee. For the most part Rochester's late-night eateries - what we'll call those open until 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays - are anything but. From early morning hangout to warm refuge to impromptu office, these greasy spoons are quintessentially American.

The very concept of the roadside diner was spurned by the gustatory demands of America's westward expansion, as well as the prevailing transportation of the day. And like most cities, Rochester's history can be traced through the evolution of its diners. Icon Nick Tahou Hots (320 W Main St, 436-0184) sprung up in the shadow of Rochester's once-vibrant, now demolished, downtown train depot, and the current state of Tahou's (it closes at 8 p.m.) speaks to the changes Rochester has undergone.

While we can't include every late-night eatery in town, each restaurant on this list reflects those changes in its own way, feeding the hungry into the wee small hours. Did we miss your favorite spot? Log on to the new rochestercitynewspaper.com and tell us about it.

East Ridge Family Restaurant (24 hours, 1925 E Ridge Rd, 338-7900)

This east-side eatery hosts an extensive menu, but I prefer to stick with the breakfast. (As comedian Steven Wright said, "I went into this restaurant that serves you breakfast anytime, so I ordered French toast during the Renaissance.") That trick works at East Ridge, or if you prefer, a short stack costs only $3.55. A bottomless cup of coffee ($1.40) is unquestionably a good idea at 1 a.m., or any hour.

Empire Hots (Fri-Sat until 4 a.m., 2209 Empire Blvd, 787-2110)

This Webster eatery has some interesting choices for the cheeseburger-worn trash plate connoisseur. Order the standard plate with fried eggs ($5.75) for a true Rochesterian breakfast. The grilled cheese plate ($6.15), no hot sauce, is an alluring vegetarian option, its gooey melted cheese glowing an incandescent yellow between cinched slices of butter-soaked white bread. Visiting Empire Hots is as much a social experience as it is a culinary one; good luck finding a quiet minute in this bustling hub, except maybe during the day, when the kids who usually hold court are still asleep.

Gitsis Texas Hots (24 hrs, 600 Monroe Ave, 271-8260)

On weekends the line for a table runs out the door, but barring the last-call rush, Gitsis' atmosphere is subdued and familial. Though the name suggests food encased in a tube, this restaurant has a full diner menu and offers free refills on its coffee ($1.40; take that, Starbucks). Rice pudding ($1.75) is a tough food to perfect, and Gistis' gelatinous offering, topped with warm whipped cream, is among the best I've had. Some swear by the plates ($7.25, topped with burgers or dogs), which feature generous portions and are notably served on real plateware.

Jay's Diner (24 hours, 2612 W Henrietta Rd, 424-3710)

Jay's, dolled up like a 50's soda shop, evokes the backlit Burger City of "American Graffiti" in both its décor and fine food. Among the crowd, Jay's offers a more refined late-night dining experience, with plates ($8.95), "All-American" hamburgers ($3.75), and a variety of pies ($3.25, $4.25 with ice cream) that smack of the culinary perfection of "Twin Peaks"' Double R Diner more than anything from this world.

Steve T's Hots and Potatoes (24 hourrs, 2260 Lyell Ave, 429-6388)

Earlier this year Steve T's shed the well-known Tahou moniker for its current title, and with the change came some touch ups: new booths in the restaurant and Rochester's own Zweigles hot dogs on the grill. Steve T even puts a face to the name by working the redeye shift himself. Stop by around 5 a.m. and he'll serve you a cheeseburger plate ($7.50) and a cola ($1.35 with refill). And yes, the bread still comes from those mysterious garbage bags.

Wimpy's Burger Basket (Fri-Sat until 4a.m., 2160 Buffalo Rd, 247-3160)

Wimpy's Spartan Special is essentially a half "plate" (cheeseburger, hot dog, grilled cheese, or chicken fingers served on a bun and with sides, soda included, for $5.93), and it makes this eatery one of the best late-night deals possibly in the world. That is, if you're in the know: the Spartan Special, in a speakeasy-like turn, is not on the menu. As many of Gates-Chili's own Spartan-pride toting students are frequent patrons, the name is an easy sell.