On the corner of Clifford and Goodman you'll find a restaurant we just had to seek out. Papa Van's Eatery is located across from Al Green's Tavern, in a section of Rochester worlds away from Park Avenue. Truth is, I'm not sure Park Avenue could handle this kind of food. It's real, gritty, and unflinchingly Southern.

The shocking red exterior at Papa Van's matches the color of the large, varied menu, yet one that was surprisingly light on certain Southern fare we expected to see, like fried okra and hush puppies. That's OK, because what Papa Van's does have, it does well, and items like collard greens, gizzards, oxtails, and catfish are sure to please those looking for some Southern comfort. While I didn't get the chance to chat with the owner, he will be pleased to hear that my Southern-raised husband was extremely happy after this stop.

Papa Van's serves up food in a variety of ways - 8 ounce single-serve items, 1 pound servings that are good to share with another person, and 2 pound serving sizes that could easily serve a family, along with dinners and hoagies. We sampled a few things and came away with leftovers and a belly ache (in a good way). And all of it cost less than 25 bucks.

Pulled pork and fried chicken were must-eats after viewing the menu, and they were done up right. The chicken came in a thin, crispy coating and bursting with juices, and was appropriately greasy. The pork hoagie was enormous, a large, firm roll, slathered with smoky and slightly sweet barbecue sauce. The pork stood out, not hiding behind the sauce, but rather holding its own. This hoagie was so big, I gave up on the bread for the second half and just ate the pork, not wanting to leave any bits behind.

The side choices presented a tough decision, but we went with cole slaw and yams. I am picky about my slaw, and this was good - not drenched in dressing, the cabbage having a crisp bite along with enough seasoning to skip the usual buried-in-pepper routine. The second helping had a bit more pineapple flavor than the first, but it was still subtle enough that it didn't overpower. The yams were a soupy mess of sweetness and sugar, and still tasted yummy later during a midnight refrigerator raid.

Desserts include a large selection of favorites rarely seen north of the Mason-Dixon Line. Pies like sweet potato, grasshopper, and coconut cream are featured here, as are eight other dessert choices. We tried the latter two pies, and while they didn't change my general dislike of cream pies, those who enjoy them should find Papa Van's an acceptable fix.

Papa Van's is located at 1175 North Goodman Street, and is open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m. For more information call 288-2240.

Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week in Rochester is currently going on, running through Sunday, May 3. A popular event in many large cities, this is the first time it has come to Rochester, and it offers foodies an opportunity to taste new restaurants, or revisit favorites at an affordable price. Options vary, but the bill remains the same: special dinners at participating restaurants will cost just $20.09, and many restaurants are also using that $20.09 price point for a lunch to share.

Mind you, that special price is only applicable to a specific dish, or set of dishes, at each restaurant. So a visit to Pane Vino will get you a great deal on a 6oz filet mignon, vegetable medley, and potato du jour, served with a glass of Red Tail wine. Good Luck is offering a first course of asparagus salad with truffled vinaigrette with an organic hard boiled egg, and a choice between traditional Neapolitan pizza, or a whole-wheat pizza for your second course. Other participating restaurants include Max Chophouse, Blue Cactus Mexican Grill, Rocco, Virtu, and many more. The list of restaurants and their offerings can be found at localrestaurantweek.com.

Vince McConeghy, community manager at localfoodservice.com, just came off a successful Buffalo Restaurant Week, and is excited by the response he's gotten from Rochester's restaurants. McConeghy says events like this allow restaurants to help drive business in weeks that might otherwise be soft, and introduce people to restaurants they may not even know about. This event is slated to become a semi-annual event, taking place in fall and spring.

Just a note: tax and gratuity are not included in these deals, so please remember to take care of your wait staff.

Closing

Bodhi's Cafe, a seemingly perfect fit for the Village Gate vibe, has closed recently. Opened in October 2006, this lively eatery served coffee house fare, specialty sandwiches, and Asian-influenced American specialties. A call to the Village Gate business office confirmed the closure, and while they hope to have the spot filled soon, it's too early to announce a new tenant.