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CHOW HOUND: Bigg Mouth Diner, Midtown Cafe, Holley's Cafe

New diner round-up

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Diners often equate to a home away from home for many diners. Friendly greetings, solid food, and lively characters that remind you of family -that's what you'll find at the relatively new Bigg Mouth Diner, which opened in February. Tucked away in an industrial area on West Avenue, it is a quick trip west from downtown. Owned by husband and wife team Chris and Mary Jean Golojuch, Mary Jean specifically priced the entrees low so the average person could still treat themselves. It definitely was a treat to be stuffed until the next morning for less than 20 bucks.

I assumed the diner name was directly related to the portions. While the portions do require a big mouth (and stomach), Golojuch is quick to point out it's also a direct reference to her. "I'm loud, and everyone has always called me a big mouth in a fun way," she says.

We visited on a Friday night and started with mushrooms that were perfectly battered, fried, and piled high. We also ordered the fish fry, which dominated the plate, complete with homemade mashed potatoes and tangy coleslaw. Even though the batter was thicker than I prefer, the fish was crispy and golden fried, with the meat inside moist and delicious. In a diner, breakfast can easily become dinner, so we ordered that up as well. The sausage omelet was so large it literally hung off the plate, the accompanying potatoes fork-tender and well seasoned.

There are plenty more dishes to try at Bigg Mouth, and one omelet on the top of my list is the German, which is essentially a breakfast Reuben. Stuffed with corn beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing, I can't wait to see how my favorite sandwich tastes in the morning.

Bigg Mouth Diner is located at 839 West Avenue and is open Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; Friday 7 a.m.-8 p.m. For more information call 436-2121.

Midtown Cafe

This little café opened about a month ago on Chestnut, in a former location of Flour City Diner. Breakfast was our goal when we stopped by, and overall we left satisfied. The coffee was good and strong, the service was spot on, but some slight improvements could still be made in the food department.

The steak and eggs caught our eye, and happily the steak was cooked the as-ordered medium, the eggs perfectly runny. We also tried a Spanish frittata, which was smothered in cheese and full of vegetables. I did find it a tad light on the chorizo sausage, which would have elevated the dish to a much spicier level; however the pico de gallo added freshness to the dish.

The potatoes that came with both dishes were a bit of a letdown, uniform deep-fried squares with no seasoning. The biggest disappointment, however, was the side of pancakes: chalky and inedible, these seemed to be missing a key ingredient. When we pointed it out to our server, the situation was handled expertly, with an apology, an offer to provide something in its place, and the removal from our bill.

New restaurants always need some time to get things perfect, so we look forward to a return visit. Perhaps we'll try out some of the lunch menu or snag a homemade pastry or two.

Midtown Cafe is located at 35 Chestnut Street, and is open for breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m.-4 p.m. For more information call 730-8222.

Holley's Cafe and Catering

Another southern-leaning spot has opened in the city, this time on the corner of Brooks and Thurston. Owned by John and Audry Holley, this cute little eatery still boasts the sign from the days when Snuffy's ruled the corner, and reportedly still serves the original Shabazz chicken and steak sauce. Confused? No worries; all you really need to know is soul food is served here, and if you don't make the ordering mistake I did, you should be fine.

The menu is fairly small, with a few choices for breakfast, and sandwiches, subs, ribs, and a few different entrees served for lunch and dinner. The mistake I alluded to was ordering a hamburger, when I really should have stuck to what Holley's seems to excel at, Southern-style comfort food.

My dining companion made the better choice, getting the smothered pork chops dinner. The sides offered have a Southern flair, with choices like collard greens or yams, along with mac and cheese. Like fried okra? It's not on the menu, but if you ask for it, you might just find yourself in luck. The pork chop dinner was overflowing with deep, rich gravy, and the meat was fork tender. The fried okra, while still on the slimy side for me, sent my dining companion into a state of bliss. There's nothing wrong with some good soul food, and on that Holley's delivers.

Holley's Cafe and Catering, located on 575 Brooks Avenue, is open Monday-Thursday 8 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 8 a.m.-10 p.m. For more information call 328-1930.

Comments for "CHOW HOUND: Bigg Mouth Diner, Midtown Cafe, Holley's Cafe" (2)

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Joan VanNess said on May. 27, 2009 at 5:08pm

My husband and I enjoyed the chicken dinner with two sides and it was tender and delicious. We chose greens & mac & cheese for sides - wonderful. For desert the sweet potatoe pie can't be beat.

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Katie Smith said on May. 28, 2009 at 2:53pm

I eat at Midtown Cafe almost everyday and I have never had a bad meal. It is so great to have a restaurant in our area that has fresh and different foods. Their soups are out of this world! I tried the carrot ginger soup, and the bacon cheeseburger soup and those could have been a meal in itself. The Spicy Turkey Wrap is usually what I order and I am never dissatisfied. The prices are reasonable too. Where else can you get a gourmet lunch for under 10$.........There used to be a diner there before so I guess people are just used to diner foods. Please give them a chance, I did!

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