Mmmmm, nachos. So simple, so divine - and surprisingly easy to screw up. If the chips are stale, the cheese isn't melted (or real), and the ingredients bland, it can be a really disappointing appetizer. But done right and paired with an appropriately cold and refreshing beverage, it can make the rest of the meal, or even be your meal. Your intrepid Chow Hounds set out to see what variations we could find, as well as locate some serious nacho contenders. Did we miss your favorite local nacho spot? If so, tell us about it at rochestercitynewspaper.com.

Tucked in northeast Rochester, Merchants Grill (881 Merchants Rd, 482-2010, merchantsgrill.com) is a perfect mix of bar and restaurant. The nacho appetizer ($7.49) came amazingly quick, and I wasn't sure if the plastic basket would hold up under the weight of the chili and the melted cheese. I loved the pile of ingredients that were so generously heaped that I could barely see the chips. The first bite didn't seem like the chili had much flair, but all of a sudden with the second bite we were working with some spicy nachos. Add the jalapenos and we were basking in the heat, and glad we ordered cold beers. The onions and tomatoes were a bit on the chunky side, and the sour cream and salsa would have been better served right on top, rather than in to-go cups. Other than those small nit-picky complaints, this was a nacho feast.

A perfect companion to nachos is beer, so what better place to try that particular combo than at Rohrbach Brewing Company (3859 Buffalo Rd, 594-8900, rohrbachs.com)? Instead of traditional nachos, we tried the pulled-pork variation ($9.95). While some elements of this appetizer worked, the dish as a whole underwhelmed. The good points: the nachos were light and crisp, and the pulled pork had a tasty tang. The bad points: the addition of salsa with the pork was oddly unsettling and took away from the better tasting meat. Also, the ingredients were piled in the middle, not evenly distributed, making it hard to scoop up with such light chips. Probably the biggest disappointment was the use of cheese sauce, especially the large pools that made many of the chips soggy. The chips that managed to have real cheddar fared much better.

While Rohrbach's pulled pork/salsa combination may not work for everyone, others will revel in a second nacho alternative, Buffalo wing dip nachos ($9.95). The nachos start out traditionally (tortilla chips, tomatoes, cheese, etc), but for a twist they're topped off with Buffalo wing dip, a delicious chicken, cream cheese, blue cheese and hot sauce concoction.

There's a lot to love about Beale Street Caf� (689 South Ave, 271-4650, bealestreetcafe.com), from the cheesy beads to the spicy flavors. One of the more expensive nacho options we tried ($11.98), this ended up being worth the cost. You can get the nachos without chili (pork is also available); however, we asked for chili and boy, did we get it. Scrumptiously piled on hot and heavy, this chili had large chunks of meat and a healthy kick that we enjoyed. A minor wish-there-was-more-cheddar complaint, but other than that, this dish was some good eats, and could easily be a meal.

Whether you're a nacho aficionado who thinks they've tried every variant out there, or you're just not into nachos in their traditional form, you might be interested in trying out some of the more unique nacho offerings in the area. A few worth mentioning:

For those who prefer nachos that mix nationalities, both Matthew's East End Grill (200 East Ave, 454-4280, matthewseastendgrill.com) and MacGregors' Grill and Tap Room (several area locations; check macgregorsgrillandtaproom.net) offer Irish nachos that feature waffle fries in place of the customary tortilla chip ($6.99 and $8.59, respectively). Matthew's tops its crispy, perfectly greasy waffle fries with chili and cheddar cheese, while MacGregors' sticks with more traditional nacho toppings like seasoned beef, jalapenos, tomatoes, salsa, and sour cream.

Readers can debate whether the following fit more into the unique or authentic category from some of Rochester's popular Mexican and Latino establishments. Salena's Mexican Restaurant (302 N Goodman St, 256-5980, salenas.com) offers three options on its menu: cheese nachos with jalapeno peppers ($2.75), which are literally as described, though diners can add beef or chicken for an additional $1.25; "Hole Mole" nachos topped with melted cheese and guacamole ($9.25); and the "Mexican Mess" nachos, its more standard nacho offering.

While nachos are traditionally defined as chips covered in cheese, Dorado (690 Park Ave, 244-8560, doradoparkave.com) puts the dipping back in diners' hands with its Chorizo Con Queso, served with fresh tortilla chips ($7). Monte Alban Mexican Grill (845 E Ridge Rd, Irondequoit, 697-0615; 2245 Empire Blvd, Webster, 787-4700; montealban-mexicangrill.com) might as well be termed a nacho lover's sanctuary with eight varieties to choose from, starting with the traditional nachos supreme ($6.49/half order, $8.49/full order) and throwing in curveballs like the fajitas nachos ($6.99/half order, $9.99/full order), featuring grilled peppers, onions, mushrooms, and tomatoes with chicken or beef, or the shredded chicken nachos, which are topped with white-meat chicken that has been slow-cooked in a tasty vegetable sauce.