I'm not normally one to swoon over pickles. The spear of overdone cucumber nestled beside my corned beef sandwich, or the unworldly yellow-green discs alongside my burger usually end up pushed aside, neglected in favor of more attractive condiments and sides. My grandmother made incredible bread-and-butter pickles, and there was always a tub of refrigerator pickles on the table at every meal from July through September. My father-in-law, too, dabbles in pickle-making, trying to recreate the garlicky half-sours and kosher dills he grew up with. I spent a good part of my childhood in south-central Pennsylvania, where the Amish pickle almost anything that can be cut to fit into a canning jar, serving sweet-and-sour chow-chow with just about everything.
So, when I saw that Ember Woodfire Grill in Livonia had a daily "house pickled selection" on the menu ($5), I was intrigued enough to order some, but I wasn't prepared to end up waxing lyrical about the plate of dill- and garlic-scented red cabbage, sliced red and yellow bell peppers, cucumber, asparagus spears, scallions, zucchini, and shredded carrots that our server delivered along with our drinks. To say that Embers' owners, Paul and Luke De Velder, are pickle masters is to indulge in understatement. These two are pickle demigods, and there's almost nothing on the restaurant's menu (with the possible exception of dessert) that their pickles aren't good with.
Opened by the De Velder brothers and their partner, Phil Kyle, in December 2009 in a renovated train station near the shores of Conesus Lake, Ember Woodfire Grill calls to mind swanky steakhouses and big-city power bars: it is done up in artfully exposed stone- and woodwork, hardwood, and distressed concrete with open flames flickering in recessed sconces. But Ember is neither pretentious nor particularly pricy, especially given the mammoth size of the portions that emerge from the kitchen at what seems like a breakneck pace.
A reflection of the lifetime of restaurant experience that the De Velders and their partner bring to the business (Paul also owns the Vital Spot, a successful sports bar in Geneseo; Luke is an experienced and gifted bartender; Phil has been a feature in restaurant kitchens for more than 15 years) the place radiates friendliness, charm, and efficiency from the moment you walk through the door.
Still, the dining room can be earsplittingly loud when the place is busy. The newly opened patio, however, is a welcome and welcoming respite from the noise and haste. Grab a table, order drinks (and a plate of pickles), and let the cares of the workaday world melt away as you watch the cooks pop in and out of the kitchen to pluck herbs and veggies from the restaurant's small but well planned garden, which includes heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, several varieties of hot and sweet peppers, and a wide array of herbs (the mint is used in the restaurant's superlative mint chip ice cream).
The patio is where I found myself on a recent Friday night, sipping a citrusy gin rickey ($7) and absentmindedly snaking bits of pickled zucchini and scallion from the nearby plate as I looked over the menu. Ember offers what can only be described as highly refined bar food alongside well executed twists on American classics. Panko-crusted chicken "stix" ($6 small, $12 large) and Angus beef sliders ($11) share space with tangy grilled-pork skewers finished with a spicy peach salsa and a delicate-looking asparagus, pear, and gruyere tart ($9). Thin-crusted pizzas ($9) - cheese still bubbling, bottoms dotted with hot spots, tasting faintly of wood smoke - clamor for attention. So do racks of spareribs, cooked low and slow in the wood oven, finished with a sticky and delicious balsamic barbecue sauce and served with a mountain of potato salad and a lake of barbecue beans redolent of bacon and brown sugar.
With so many interesting choices and combinations to choose from, just settling on the evening's menu can be an absorbing process requiring more than one cocktail to resolve: my second of the evening was a macerated cherry martini made with Hendrick's gin ($8), fruity and sweet with a crisp and almost crunchy undertone of cucumbers and juniper.
The beauty of Ember is that it can be pretty much whatever you want: on one night you can have an upscale tapas meal; on another, you can indulge in bar food. If you had only one decent restaurant in town, this is what you would want it to be like. Start a meal off with grilled brined pork skewers ($10 small, $18 large), salty and meaty with beautiful char lines on the meat, peach salsa sweetening up the flavors. Proceed to a plate of ribs ($19), so slow-roasted that the flesh more or less falls from the bones, so thickly glazed that the scent of smoke and sauce will linger with you for days.
Then scoop up a bit of pickle and prepare for fireworks: the combination of salt and vinegar along with the fat and sweet elements in the meat create an instant gastrique in your mouth, cutting right through the fat and making the flavors pop. The same thing happens with the pork skewers when you return to them. And it even works with the barbecue beans and potato salad. There's simply nothing on the table that isn't better with a bit of pickle to round it out.
The DeVelders make pretty much everything they serve from scratch, using recipes either handed down from their mother, or inspired by her cooking. The pickles, and the finely shredded sauerkraut and fiery rough-cut horseradish served alongside their housemade sausages are inspired by her.
The oatmeal cake with peanut butter chocolate frosting ($4.50) is her recipe alone, and may be the richest dessert I've ever tasted. A massive rectangle of cake topped with a thick layer of fudgy buttercream finished with an artful swirl of chocolate sauce, the cake was as close to flourless as it could get, moist and dense, more like a brownie than a traditional cake. The frosting was pure decadence, chocolate, peanut butter, and seemingly at least a pound of butter per slice whipped to the consistency of nougat. Two bites of this confection are enough to satisfy even the most dedicated of sybarites, a sweet ending to a savory adventure.
To find Ember Woodfire Grill in City Newspaper's online Restaurant Guide - including a map, user reviews, and more - click here.
Ember Woodfire Grill
21 Livonia Station, Livonia
346-0222, emberwoodfiregrill.com
Mon-Wed 4:30-9:30 p.m., Thu-Sat 4:30-10 p.m. (bar open one hour after close)





Comments for "RESTAURANT REVIEW: Ember Woodfire Grill" (11)
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kat sweeney said on Jul. 12, 2010 at 1:17pm
After reading Mr Leach's positively mouthwatering descriptions - and in spite of the fact that I almost never leave the city to dine - I couldn't wait to get to Embers. Friday night, my friend and I decided to indulge ourselves in a little culinary hedonism and made the trek to Livonia. We don't often treat ourselves and were downright giddy with anticipation.
Sadly, while the food wasn't particularly bad, it wasn't great either, and I'll elaborate on that. But the most memorable aspect of our visit was the service, I'm still scratching my head about. When we arrived, there was a 40 minute wait for a table (good sign, we thought) so, seeing several others dining at the bar, we decided to do the same. Bad choice as it turned out - the service there was beyond neglectful. I actually felt when I left that the three - yes three bartenders went out of their way to ignore us. We literally had to flag down one of them EVERY time we wanted to order another Tapas dish or drink - at one time in fact, my friend leaned over the bar and loudly asked if we could please order something else - we had been unsuccessful in flagging them down that time.
When they brought a dish, it was placed on the bar barely in front of us without a word, a glance or even eye contact before they walked away. We were not once asked how our food was or if we needed anything. Further, as we ordered different things, the dishes just kept piling up on the bar in front of us, nothing was ever cleared. It was especially puzzling as the bar and restaurant emptied of people - we were one of the few customers left - yet our service remained as elusive as when it was packed.
We decided to sample 3 different things from the Small Tapas menu, the highly touted pizza and Oatmeal cake for desert. Sadly every one was a bit disappointing - nothing horribly wrong with them - just not really right either. Grilled Fresh Veggies, to me anyway, suggests slices of veggies cooked al dente - on a grill, with nice grill marks and that wonderful slightly smokey flavor - these were strips of limp, soggy tri-color pepper strips with no discernible grill marks or taste at all. We didn't eat them - and were never asked why. The Asparagus, Pear & Gruyere "Tart" was actually a rectangular slice of puff pastry with the above ingredients simply layered on top of it. It's kind of the simple thing one makes when one doesn't know how to cook, or is just learning. And though it was the tastiest of our choices, would have been much better had it not been overwhelmed by the too thick pear slices. The Panko Breaded Chicken Stix, though plentiful and nicely cooked, were quite tasteless - which could have been remedied with a flavorful dipping sauce but alas, that was flavorless as well.
The Pizza Margherita, while larger than expected, was a bit lacking in flavor. Having tasted dozens of wood fired pizza (it's one of my favorite things in the world), and realizing there is much room for interpretation, I prefer the versions closer to what I've had in Europe; a thinner crust - crispy, smokey and charred from a very hot fired oven, fresh ingredients sparingly applied. While my friend didn't like it at all, I accepted it for what it was, a fairly typical American interpretation, barely able to tell it was wood fired, nothing to write home about.
Lastly, we had to sample the Oatmeal Cake Mr Leach described so lovingly as rich, moist and decadent. Our slice deserved much less praise. The thick and very dry cake seemed not to have enough frosting to combat the lack of moisture. I'm guessing it wasn't very fresh. We didn't eat this either.
Perhaps we should have stuck to more of the dishes Mr. Leach had, but I doubt I'll make that long drive again to be literally ignored while eating average food. If you go, hope you have a better experience - just don't sit at the bar.
Local Observer said on Jul. 13, 2010 at 1:20pm
Kat,
Thanks for the report. After reading this glowing review I was actually thinking of taking my wife there in the next few weeks on a trip to the Finger Lakes but I think I'll skip it. I like my wood fired (or coal fired) pizza pretty much the way you described it. That along with the poorly grilled veggies is enough for me to save the gas and time driving to Livonia.
ps: Is it me or does the sauce in the margherita pizza picture look more like jam?
maybe the color is off on my monitor
motherbear said on Jul. 17, 2010 at 2:40pm
Kat and Local Observer,
My husband and I spend a LOT of time at Ember and I have to respectfully and completely disagree with Kat's description of the place...as a matter of fact, as I read it, I wondered if you'd actually landed at the wrong restaurant!
We've dined on the deck, in the dining room and at the bar and actually prefer the bar. The girls are more than friendly, they're a breath of fresh air! We laugh our heads off each time we sit there and my husband will tell you that the one there is real easy on the eyes, which, as shallow as it sounds, actually makes the experience all the more pleasant.
As a veteran bartender of more than one bar/grill, I can tell you that their job isn't easy! I often wonder if people who use the "flag down" method to get their drinks, know that these bartenders aren't just making drinks for the bar, they're making drinks for the entire restaurant. And being flagged down when you're under a whole lot of pressure in the first place not only makes you want to ignore that person, it makes you want to spit in their drink. I'm not saying I've never been in the same boat as you, I've been disgusted by terrible service more than once (NEVER at Ember), but I've had to sit back and think about my worst bartending night and try to understand that the person is probably having the same kind of night. Ever host a dinner party and get overwhelmed by the preparation? Now multiply that by 10 hours of that same work for about 200 dinners and you've got their job on a slow night! Before you shake your head and say "they chose their job", understand that everyone has good and bad days - you're kidding yourself if you disagree. I think you went on a bad night and maybe exaggerated to get your point across. Either way, I tell everyone I know what a great stop it is for us and I'll continue to do so!
Kudos Mr. Leach on your article!!! I completely agree!!!
kat sweeney said on Jul. 18, 2010 at 10:51am
Motherbear, Very happy to hear your experience of Embers is great! I do want to tell you I was a server and bartender for many years and completely understand the job and all it's stresses. Because of that, I am exceedingly understanding and patient with waitstaff where ever I am - and would normally NEVER rudely flag down a busy bartender. A smile and a quick "be with you in a sec" when you notice an empty glass goes a long way, we never got even close to that level of attention at Embers. I hope it was, for whatever reason, some kind of off night for the girls behind the bar - I was just honestly reporting our experience - which still has me scratching my head....
Dale said on Jul. 19, 2010 at 4:56pm
As the friend who dined with Kat, I ditto everything she says. I hadn't read the review, but was eager to go because of her enthusiasm.
motherbear, I, too have worked in the restaurant biz. I can assure you I wasn't flagging them down while they were busy with other things. I was trying to get their attention while they giggled amongst themselves. With the many dishes we ordered, and many different drinks we order to accompany them, I was actually quite astounded at the lack of attention we received, and the way the food was simply pushed in front of us, and our previous dishes simply pushed to the side.
I don't feel Kat's review was exaggerated. After tasting them the next day, I didn't eat the leftovers. That kind of says it all for me.
Foodie 10 said on Jul. 27, 2010 at 12:22am
I have to say after reading the comment's from Cat I was Debating canceling our reservation . Right from the minute we walked in the door this place had it right. I stayed away from the tart but did try the pizza and it was amazing the Margherita was not sauce it was just tomatoes as it should be.The fresh vegetables where very good but I have to agree they were not wood grilled . The pickle selection Mr leach recommended was outstanding. We tried to order a pizza to take with us and our server informed us that the restaurant's policy was against take out food because there flour was special and not great when cold. The entire night was great and well worth the drive. the service was very good as well. I think Kat was at another restaurant or it was a very bad night at Embers.
karl said on Jul. 30, 2010 at 9:12pm
I've been to Ember three times and I have to say that the experience that Kat and Dale had must have been a complete aberration. I have gone the reservation route and stopped in after a round of golf, each time I was seated in an acceptable time frame. The staff was attentive the entire time we were there.
Like I said I have been there a total of three times, I have recommended it even more.
Shar said on Aug. 17, 2010 at 3:03pm
Place is way too fancy.
WAY too expensive for drinks!
Ferf said on Aug. 21, 2010 at 11:40am
I went to Ember a couple saturdays ago and it was very good. It's got a fun atmosphere and a very interesting menu. I say to Kay and Dale sorry for your unfavorable experience but try it again. As having restaurant experience you know, things don't always go as they should every single time. I plan on going again with my husband and friends.
Joe said on Jul. 15, 2011 at 11:17am
Just visited from calif. I HAVE NEVER Been in a upscale restaurant and had such martinis for 4.00. The food was beyond excellant. I don't know how anyone can say Embers is pricey.
Sam said on Aug. 26, 2011 at 5:27pm
I have been to Ember so many times I am a Loyalty card holder (earn points towards $50 gift card). I LOVE the food and the service has always been attentive and courteous. Not sure what happened on the days the negative reviewers were there, but I have never had something there that wasn't excellent. Locally grown seasonal produce and meat is a definite plus in my book and this is by far the best restaurant in the area there. I hope people give it another chance.
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