CHOW HOUND: Setting the bar 

Reuben Fritters from McColley's in Spencerport.

PHOTO BY MARK CHAMBERLIN

Reuben Fritters from McColley's in Spencerport.

So while the other suburbs seem to be busy opening a frozen-yogurt shop in every strip mall, the tiny village of Spencerport (population 3,601, according to the 2010 census) may be slowly morphing into a culinary mecca. You'll encounter excellent barbecue, homey…

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