DINING REVIEW: Esan Thai 

Where Rochester, Bangkok, and New York meet

Chicken Satay with peanut sauce.

PHOTO BY MARK CHAMBERLIN

Chicken Satay with peanut sauce.

There are streets in Manhattan that have yet to be completely overtaken by chain restaurants, though they are further and fewer between than they were 10 years ago. These patches of resistance are little, rabbit-warren-like spaces, crammed with wood-grain Formica two-tops and…

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